Earlier this year, Hong Kong strap maker Heroic 18
released their Vintage Brown Leather NATO. The vast majority of Heroic
18's line up consists of thick, Panerai style, two-piece straps with
massive buckles. They are fun straps, and nicely made, so I was looking
forward to trying the only NATO in their inventory. Originally available
only as a promotional item, it is now available for $99. It is 24mm wide, 250mm long, 2mm thick, and available
only with PVD black hardware. The color is a cognac brown, with a
pronounced texture to the grain, but Heroic 18 cautions that because it
is made of vintage leather, there will be some variation between straps.

Many
leather NATOs are only minimally finished, with raw cut sides, no
stitching beyond that which is necessary to secure the hardware, and no
lining. This makes sense given the the rugged nature of these straps. It
also allows the strap to be thinner, which makes it easier to fit it
past the spring bars and double back the tail. Heroic 18 takes a very
different approach. This strap is two layers, expertly finished with a
matching box stitch. The lining is the same as the surface. Perhaps as a
result, the
strap is uncommonly stiff. Heroic 18 describes the leather as "soft,
supple, and flexible" but I beg to differ. It can almost stand up by
itself.

At
250mm, the strap is relatively short compared to most NATOs that run
280mm or longer. The long tail end is usually doubled back through the
loops on the buckle end. This would be difficult on the Heroic 18, but
because the strap is so short, it will not be necessary for most owners.
My wrist is only 6.5" around, and this strap fits it without any
excess tail - but only just barely. If my wrist were any smaller, the
tail would protrude and it would be unwearable, but larger wrists will
wear it without issue.

The
PVD hardware is nicely made and properly sized. Although the keepers
appear to be Zulu style, they are noticably slimmer, which makes more
sense on this tailored strap. The buckle is a short version of a Pre-V design, engraved with the Heroic 18 trident. The
thickness and stiffness of the strap made it a challenge to fit on some
watches. I gave up trying to squeeze it onto a Magrette Moana, but it
threaded its way onto the Luminor style case of a PAM clone without a
problem. Ultimately, I squeezed it onto a Torgoen T10, where it looks
rather smart.

The Heroic 18 Vintage Brown NATO is likely not what most strap enthusiasts have in mind. It is well made, looks
good, and it will be very interesting to see how it breaks in, but it
is not the relaxed, supple, slip-it-on-and-go NATO you might expect. It
is not uncomfortable on the wrist in spite of its stiffness, but the
inflexible leather prevents it from being truly enjoyable to wear. This
was a great "free with purchase" promotional item, but if you want a
leather NATO, there are better ways to spend $99.
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